Mountain Bike Tips, Opinions, and Comments

general disclaimer: this page is full of my OPINIONS. Some of my opinions are fact based, some are experience based, and some are just emotion based. Some stuff I learned from bike camps,some from friends and <eek> some things I learned off the internet!! This is what works for me. It may not work for you.

One of the reasons I'm doing this page is because of my learning style. I don't typically get things by osmosis, or even by watching someone. I need things explained, broken down and demonstrated. Then I like to practice the skill and and apply it. My goal is to get comfortable enough with a skill that I don't have to think about it anymore; the muscle memory and repetition kicks in. If this is not your learning style, then this page may not be for you. Thinking too much is bad, but some of us have to think and process to learn, and then disengage the thinking part as we get more comfortable with things. Thanks to everyone who has contributed, directly or indirectly. (update 2/06)

Mountain biking should be fun. If you aren't having fun, try these ideas:

  • find new riding partners
  • take a skills clinic
  • relax - it's not a race or a contest. Feel the sun on your back and the trail under your wheels. Just think, you could be at work, or cleaning the garage! Stop and play for a while.
  • get a new bike, have it tuned up, or put a new fork on the one you have

What about WSD (women specific design)? It's a great concept, geometry and frames just for women. This concept is for a specific body type: women who have a short torso and long legs. I ride a men's 15" Kona which fits me beautifully. I have a longer torso. Don't get locked into WSD, but go ahead and try it and see if it's right for you. For some women, it's exactly what they need. Try lots of bikes until you feel the one that's right for you. Some things you can change out on your bike are smaller brake levers, shorter cranks, and more narrow handlebars.

If your LBS (Local Bike Shop) is insisting that you try WSD, or only WSD, and treating you in a condescending manner - "hey little lady, we know what you need..." Run, do not walk, to a different shop. You deserve better than that. Try lots of different bikes.

What about a hardtail(HT) or a full-suspension (FS)? I am of the belief and experience that if you start out on a HT bike, you will learn much better bike handling skills than if you start out on a FS. Many new riders that begin on FS bikes expect the suspension to do all the work, and they don't learn how to be dynamic rider. There is no trail that cannot be ridden by one bike over the other. Just remember, it's the rider NOT the bike.

 

How about some general riding tips? OK...I'm not expert but these work for me. I've been really fortunate to have some great riding pals who are awesome mentors and teachers, and to have attended some skills camps with really great coaches. I'm not an expert or a racer, I just like to learn how to get better, because the better I get the more fun I have. These are some core concepts that have really helped me.

  • Look where you want to go, not at the tree/rock/edge of the trail. Looking at that thing you do not want to hit is called "target acquisition". Trust me, you do not want to acquire any of those targets, and if you look at them, you will.
  • Look ahead, down the trail. Where you look, your wheels will follow. Your brain will register the things on the trail in a photographic fashion; no need to think about them.
  • Ride light: do not have a death grip on your handlebars. You should be able to wiggle your fingers. Your arms and shoulders should be relaxed. Do not lock your elbows or hunch your shoulders. If you can't ride without locking your arms or tension in your shoulders, have the fit of your bike, specifically the stem length checked professionally.
  • Momentum is your friend. Momentum can get you over small obstacles, up and over rises, and around corners better than going slow and braking for everything. Too little momentum will stop you when you could just roll or hop over something.

What is the neutral position and dynamic riding?

  • Neutral position is the basic "attack" or riding position. Butt out of the saddle, eyes forward, feet level, arms relaxed. Use this position any time you approach anything technical or a descent. Don't be crouched, stand up tall, but don't lock your joints.
  • Think of your body as a spring. Let your arms and legs work with the suspension.
  • Legs loose- don't hug the saddle with your thighs.
  • If you just "sit" on your saddle and let the bike take the hits for you, a number of things happen. First, your ride is going to be rougher than if you get out of the saddle. Second, this will limit your skill growth for learning how to maneuver through technical terrain. Some folks think that having a FS bike excuses them from having to get out of the saddle, or use their body, but they are wrong.
  • No matter what kind of suspension you have, you should focus on being dynamic, active, "one with the bike" instead of passive, or just sitting on the bike while pedaling.
  • You should be able to move up and down, forwards and backwards, and side to side while riding your bike, especially out of the saddle.
  • JimC said it best: "the saddle is not a butt rest!"

How about climbing? I may be crazy but I love climbing. Not only is it a test of fitness, but also of persistence. I'm not a big fan of "stand and mash" as that is very hard on your knees. I'm not afraid to use my low gears as much as needed. Save your standing climbs for a final push over an obstacle, around a switchback, a short steep section, or to crest a rise. Standing is ineffective for long, steady climbs.

For effective climbing, depending on the grade, stay seated, get a good leg extension, and set a pace that you can maintain. Try and save one last gear in case you need it. For steeper climbs, or getting over an obstacle while going, get forward. Get so far forward that the nose of your saddle is poking you in the butt, and put your chest down to the handle bars, and maintain your momentum. Use a little body language and momentum to get up and over whatever it is. Also, try and keep the front of the bike stable, pull back and down gently on your grip if it seems like your bike is wandering all over the trail.

If you have a lot of trouble climbing, if it seems like you are having a hard time finding your center, or that the front end of the bike seems too light or is bouncing all over the place, here are some things to check. First, have the fit of your bike checked, specifically the cockpit length. If your bike is too big, you may have problems here. Second, is your front fork a) a piece of junk that needs replacing or b) locked out and you forgot to turn it back on? I do that all the time.

What's going on in your head while climbing? Or perhaps, what should going in your head !! My Idaho riding pal, Paladin has some cool thoughts on that:
thoughts on climbing

Braking? I still remember at camp when our coach at camp asked who among us were told to never use the front brake. Every single person's hand went up. We were all told, rather, misinformed, that the best way to stay out of trouble with your front brake is to never use it. Wrong-o!!! The best was to stay out of trouble with your front brake is to learn how to use it correctly! Here's some of the great things we spent half a day working on:

  • The front brake is over 60% of your braking power. The trick is to use it properly. Panic grabs are a guaranteed endo.
  • Practice going down a steep slope using only your front brake to slow the bike. Do not skid!!
  • Use one or two fingers for braking, not your whole hand.
  • Feathering, modulation - gentle repeated "pumping" action to brake, instead of a grab. If you are skidding your bike, you are braking wrong, most likely using too much rear brake. This is extremely destructive to the trails.
  • The way your brakes feel can be adjusted ( tight or soft) , so can the amount of movement(reach) that the lever has. Small hands will typically need the reach adjusted inward. I can't believe the difference a reach adjustment made for me! (thank you, Eric!!)

Descending tips?

  • Get your weight back use the neutral position as a starting point. It can be a subtle weight shift, or it can be extreme shift.
  • Get off the saddle, move back, lower your center of gravity
  • Speed can be your friend. Just don't ride out of control
  • If you are skidding to slow down while descending, you are out of control
  • Stay loose! Let your body and your bike do the work.
  • See braking, above
  • Do not grip the saddle with your thighs. It's unstable and ineffective.
  • Heels down

The thing to notice in the photo below is that even thoughthe rider appears to have their butt way back, their weight is fully

centered on the pedals. If you get too far back you will lose control of the front of your bike.

 

  The

Switchbacks

  • Look-look-look around the turn, and keep moving.
  • Look beyond the exit of the turn, down the trail
  • Remember to stay in the neutral position. Extend your legs(but don't lock them) and move your body back as needed.
  • Go slow if you need to really control the turn, "rachet" if you need to but don't coast
  • Your bike will turn tighter than you think it will!
  • Dartman added this tidbit about switchbacks: " As far as switchbacks are concerned I've found it helps to keep the bike as upright as possible. A tight slow speed turn is not one you want to lean into unless you have a berm to rail. To do this keep the outside arm straight at the elbow and bend the inside arm. This'll lean the bike out of the turn with your weight in balance on the inside. This also maximizes tire contact with the ground."
  • I found that after I had my brake levers adjusted in for a shorter reach, it improved my cornering especially on switchbacks. With a more comfortable reach, I have much more control with feathering and modulating my front brake. This has helped my cornering immensely: I use both front and back to control my turn.
  • Be sure you are out of the saddle, move your weight back if it's steep.

 

Skills Practice: Take the time on some of your rides to play with things you want to improve at. Sometimes, we'll stop at technical features to coach either other and attempt new things. We might stop at a nasty switchback, or a difficult corner, or steep rocks. One of us might demo a move, while the others follow along. Or, we might just stop and play, without the pressure to finish the ride and move down the trail. On some rides, I bring arm and legs pads, so that I can try something out of my comfort zone and not worry about taking too much skin off. I'll loan it out, too, so that others can try something new.

Becoming a good rider doesn't happen overnight. Some of us have to work hard to gain skills and confidence. Ride a lot, stay at it, have fun, set goals. For myself, I set one or two skills goals a season, and focus on those. For example, this year I wanted to learn how to jump, and how to unweight. I met my goals, and have been able to pop my front wheel up onto things as high as 10". But don't ask me to explain how I do it, that's what camp is for.

more later....!

Great tips from Utah Mountainbiking

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