Specialty Outdoors

Sewing and Repair for Outdoors Enthusiasts

Tips for Cycle Shorts

Recommended pattern : Stretch and Sew #313 (multi size) Fabrics: 4 way stretch lycra, swim weight or 7-9 oz "beefy" lycra For chamois: ultrasuede, polartec 200 Notions: gripper elastic, thread, 1" non roll elastic Want to make cycle jerseys? My jersey gallery Where do I get everything? mail order sources

I am assuming you will have some basic sewing skills. If you need a reference, the Singer books on active wear, sergers or stretch fabrics are all very good.

Lycra Notes: Different lycras, while all 4-way, have different amounts of stretch. While almost any lycra will work, here are some observations based on the dozen or so pairs I have made.

• Swim lycra is thinner, and has a less supportive stretch, plus the quality will really vary depending on where you buy it. Prints are fun for a panel insert.
• Supplex lycra has a lot of give, and is very cool to wear in the summer. It is thin so if you hit the pavement or dirt literally, expect holes.
• Beefy lycra is excellent, but heavier/warmer. It is very supportive, and you can't kill it when it comes to snags. You may need to go up a size if you use this lycra.
• There are some two way only lycras out there (rashel knits) These only stretch lengthwise; DO NOT BUY this kind of knit.
• Sizing will vary. I use size S with swim lycra or supplex lycra, a size M with the beefy that has less give.

Sewing notes: For seams, a serger with wooly nylon is best. You can experiment with flat-lock seams if you want. A walking foot attachment for your regular machine will be very useful when making the chamois.

If you only have a regular machine for your seams, use a good thread, sharp needles and a good stretch stitch.
Look and see if your machine does this stitch: __//__// ; it is an excellent stitch for seaming lycra.

Make the pattern according to directions. Mark carefully as it's easy to get the panels mixed up. Because of narrow seam allowances, use a pencil to mark instead of snips. If you want to put in a print accent, replace one of the side panels. Do not put on the elastic at the waist or legs, or put in the chamois yet.

Fit: Once you have the shell of the short made, you can tweak the fit. I have a really small waist, so I always take it in from the hips on up. You can also make the shorts shorter, or lower the waist. Do not forget that you will fold over the waist and the legs 1" when you add the elastic.

Chamois: I use the pattern included, but I've changed it a bit. First, I trim the center seam of both the fleece and the ultrasuede, and sew the CS with a butted seam: edges flush. A 3-step zig zag works well here, as will a walking foot. Sew the ultrasuede as one layer, sew the fleece as a separate layer. Then, align the center seams with pins, and stitch the fleece layer to the ultrasuede using the same stitch around the edge. The fleece will likely grow and need to be trimmed. Try and keep everything as flat as possible.

Ready to make the chamois: polartec and ultrasuede with pattern piece

Close-up of butted seam done with a 3-step zigzag

Note pins that hold the two layers together at the center seam, and that the side being sewn is flat against the table.

The fleece will sometimes grow, just trim off excess.

completed chamois, just needs a little more trimming.

Put the chamois in: This is the part where you might want to pull your hair out part. Working on the wrong side of the shorts, match the marks for the CF, CB and side seams that you've made on the shorts and the chamois. Secure with pins. Align the center seams and secure with pins.The idea with the chamois is that the lycra in your crotch will be stretched out so that it doesn't bunch. With the inseam marks and center seam aligned, the lycra should be pulling at the pad.

Here, you can see the pins that anchor the pad along the CF seam. The top pin is the top mark, the left pin is the inseam mark. You can see that the lycra is pulled taut from the center seam to the inseam mark. On the left, this is how much excess fabric you will be moving with your hands to achieve what you see on the right side. On the right side, I have carefully worked the excess fabric past the pad with my hands and pinned to secure. Once I have it all the way in I make sure to remove any pins that are not perpendicular to the seam line.

Turn the shorts RS out, and begin to flatten the lycra in the crotch area and secure with pins. I find it best to work around the pad in sections. You will want to pull the lycra to fit the pad, flat and pin the perimeter of the pad to the shorts. You may need to work out excess lycra, stretching it to the pad and moving the excess to the non-padded area in order to get the pad to lay flat. Once I've got the whole thing pinned, I'll try it on (very carefully) to check it. It may take a few tries to get it right. You might want to vary the position of the chamois depending on personal preference, also. Typically, the section from the inseam mark to CF is much easier to do than the section from the inseam mark to CB, as it's shorter. Don't be afraid to stretch the lycra to make it work.

At this point you can either run a line of basting and then sew it in, or just sew it in. I pin perpendicular to the seam line and yes, I sew over the pins, or pull them out right as I get to them. I use the biggest zigzag stitch. Work carefully from the WS, using the edge of the pad as a guide. Work carefully as the lycra has a tendency to want to bunch under the presser foot. Do not be surprised if you don't get it right the first time.

Finished chamois insertion, viewed from the inside. It will pull flat when you put the shorts on. On these last shorts, I experimented with two rows of stitching to hold the pad in, I like the way it looks.

Elastics: Time for the finishing touches!!! Do not use the pattern instruction numbers to cut your elastic, especially for the legs. Put your shorts on, and cut a length of 1" elastic that feels comfortable around your waist. Pull it up a few inches, over lap the ends 1/2", and cut. This will be your waist elastic. My favorite technique for waist elastic is the following: quarter the elastic, and the raw edge. Use a serger or wide zigzag to overlock elastic onto fabric. ( elastic onto WS of fabric) To finish, fold waistband to the inside, use a medium zigzag and edge stitch down. You'll need to pull waistband flat as you work, stretching elastic somewhat, making sure there are no wrinkles.

Coming soon: I will make some better samples of how put the elastics on. I'll use contrast thread and fabric so you can actually see something in the photos.

For the legs, measure the circumference of your thighs where the shorts end, and cut your elastic the same, and then overlap 1/2". Better, put the shorts on sans leg elastic, and measure thigh circumference at the desired length of the shorts. The elastic may actually be longer than the leg opening, not to worry - just stretch the lycra to put the elastic on smoothly. This will give you a nice flat, non-sausagey look. For most people, the numbers given with the pattern instructions are way too short, and create a thigh elastic that is just too tight.

To make a nice flat leg elastic, there is a different technique than above. Using a wide zig zag or a serger, edge stitch gripper elastic to the RS of the shorts. Then, go back and edge stitch the other edge of the elastic down, using a narrow zig zag. Turn elastic to the inside, and sew the hem down, using a zig zag.

Ta-da! All done. Now go ride them like you stole them ;-)

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